Imagine waking up to a view of fiery skies with silhouettes of volcanic peaks. And when the sun has risen higher on the eastern horizon, its soft rays cast a gentle warmth that brings the forests and rice terraces on nearby hills to life. The air is cool and fresh. The crowing of roosters in the distance and the chirps of different birds animate what was not long ago a darkened and quiet highland blanketed by thick fog.
This was exactly what I experienced a few days ago when I stayed in Bedugul, away from the beaches most people who come to Bali are after. There was a period of time when I went to this island very often, sometimes even more than once in a year. However, my last vacation in the most famous holiday destination in the entire Indonesian archipelago happened in early 2015, and since then, other places both near and far have kept me from returning.
Bali has always been popular. But throughout the years, it seems like there is a growing number of cases that make me ponder the negative impacts of mass tourism on the island. Foreign tourists renting a motorbike and plunging it into a swimming pool in their villa (and for some strange reason proudly posting a video of it on social media); holidaymakers starting their own yoga classes focusing more on sensual pleasures, insensitive to local cultural values; the increasingly congested roads in touristy areas; and rampant property developments that often come at the cost of Bali’s natural beauty; the list is indeed getting long. In a few places, the locals unfortunately see visiting tourists – both Indonesians and foreigners – as prey with pockets of cash to be emptied. Also, the lack of adequate garbage collection in some parts of the island means plastic waste has become increasingly concerning.
However, if you know where to look (the island is bigger than what most people think), and if you go further away from the crowds, Bali will instantly reveal its legendary charms that make this place unlike any other on earth. This was exactly what I had in mind. James and I decided to stay in the highlands not only due to its greater distance from the overcrowded and overdeveloped south, but also because of its proximity to three of Bali’s four volcanic lakes. There was nothing fancy with our accommodation, but the rather rustic place afforded us a view that was a world away from the skyscrapers of Jakarta. On our first morning, we went straight to nearby Lake Beratan with the iconic Pura Ulun Danu Beratan seemingly floating in the calm water. It was very refreshing and peaceful to see this Hindu temple that is often featured in Indonesia’s tourism campaigns abroad up close, with only a handful of other tourists in sight, and in good weather too – a first for me, as in my previous two visits here it was either cloudy or rainy.
Fair weather fortunately was the norm during our four-night stay. The sun really helped bring out the colors of Balinese temples, each ornately decorated with intricate woodwork and stone carvings, as well as family shrines found at many houses all over the island. But the beauty of Bali not only lies in what the locals built. It is also present in quotidian life: the ubiquitous daily offerings called canang sari filled with fragrant and vibrant flowers, and the elaborate processions accompanying a multitude of Hindu rituals, among many others. I went to the island just with the thought of experiencing its charms again as a part of my own journey to heal my soul, but I came back with stories that I can’t wait to share with you in the coming months. One thing’s for sure: despite its popularity, I am happy to tell you that Bali still is a good idea.
Morning breaks in the highlands of Bali
Visiting the iconic Pura Ulun Danu Beratan with just a few other visitors in sight
Pura Taman Ayun, the elegant royal temple of the kingdom of Mengwi
Family shrines like these are present in many Balinese houses