During the day, the oppressive heat and humidity of the southern Taiwanese city of Kaohsiung can be a real challenge for those who are not used to them. However, when the sun goes down, not only do temperatures drop to a more bearable level, but parts of the city also transform into lively places for sampling authentic Taiwanese dishes and snacks. Better known as night markets, these are institutions that have become inseparable from the people’s daily life in the country. Their vibrancy and the great varieties of food they offer also attract another bunch of folks: international tourists, like me and James.
We were lucky to stay at a hotel only a few blocks away from Liuhe (also spelled Liouhe) Night Market, one of the most famous in Kaohsiung. From morning to afternoon, the so-called Liuhe Second Road appeared to be just a normal bustling street with a mix of shops, offices, and residential buildings. However, after sundown only foot traffic was allowed on the street, turning it into its more exciting alter ego. Lining both sides of the pedestrian-only thoroughfare were carts selling everything delicious, from oyster omelet to xiao long bao (probably the most famous type of Chinese dumpling with a soup filling), gua bao (flat steamed bun filled with pork belly, pickled mustard greens, and ground peanut sugar) to ba-wan (a gelatinous dumpling made of starch and rice flour filled with meat and vegetables). One of the most interesting things we tried was a local version of the hot dog in which the bun is made of sticky rice instead of bread. However, my personal favorite of all the things we had at the night market was freshly-made papaya milk that tasted way better than the factory-made versions I’d had before – the first time I had this beverage was in Lanyu (Orchid Island) back in 2013.
Unsurprisingly, we went to Liuhe Night Market several times due to its convenient location. But it was evident that this place was very popular given the constant crowds we encountered – it’s just a few steps away from the Formosa Boulevard MRT station, the city’s main metro interchange, which makes it very easy to reach. James told me about another night market he had heard of which supposedly caters more toward the locals, and although it’s located further to the north, it’s also conveniently situated quite close to the red line of the city’s MRT network.
One night, we took the northbound metro and got off at the Kaohsiung Arena MRT station, alluding to the nearby indoor stadium that serves as the home base of the city’s professional basketball team, the Kaohsiung Aquas. After only a few minutes’ walk, we arrived at Ruifeng Night Market with a decidedly more laid-back and less rushed ambiance. Some of the stalls sold food, snacks, and beverages similar to what we found at Liuhe Night Market, but we went to Ruifeng to try different things. First, we had a roast duck wrap. Then, we were drawn to another stall that does handmade mochi and ordered six different flavors. But the unassuming dish that stole the show that night for us was the Taiwanese large fried chicken – butterflied chicken breast that is coated in a flavorful mix of seasonings before being deep fried. It was so juicy, savory, and dangerously addictive.
We probably gained a few kilograms from our visits to both night markets. However, this is something anyone going to Taiwan should experience, for they always offer delectable delicacies you might otherwise have difficulty finding elsewhere outside of the country. And trust me, your taste buds will thank you later!
