Jakarta is hot and humid all year round, but I wasn’t prepared for what Kaohsiung had in store in late September and early October. When James and I were walking along its harbor on a sunny day, I kept thinking of how sweltering this part of Taiwan was. We love exploring a new city on foot, not only because it’s cheap and healthy, but also because it allows us to appreciate the little things that can only be observed up close from a pedestrian’s point of view. However, the temperature that day was something else. I saw a number of people on the seaside promenade donning the right kind of clothing – light and airy, allowing the occasional breeze to sweep away some perspiration – and quietly wished I had worn something similar. I was sweating profusely, so much so if I were drunk I would’ve probably ripped the sleeves off my t-shirt.
Despite the heat, why did a steady stream of locals and visitors keep coming to where we were? For the uninitiated, this stretch of the city’s harborfront definitely looks interesting, thanks to some eccentric structures that have recently been added to the skyline as well as a plethora of attractive small businesses along the coast. But if one was told that this fun-looking part of Kaohsiung used to be a busy, working port with a much less inviting appearance, that person would probably appreciate its current incarnation even more.
When Taiwan’s economy was growing at breakneck speed toward the end of the 20th century, making it one of the wealthiest countries in Asia, the port of Kaohsiung was one of its pulsating engines. From plastic toys to bicycles, laptops to computer chips, “Made in Taiwan” goods made their way across the globe from here. The optimism must have been palpable among the island nation’s population. However, across the strait, a giant was beginning to wake up from its long slumber. In 1990, although it had 55 times the population of Taiwan, China’s economy was only twice as large. But we all know what happened in the decades afterward. Today, China’s GDP (gross domestic product) eclipses that of Taiwan by 24 times, a leap partially fueled by the relocation of many businesses from the island to the mainland, lured by cheaper labor costs.
At its peak during the 1990s, the port of Kaohsiung was the third largest in the world, behind Hong Kong and Singapore. But Chinese cities soon caught up, and now out of the ten largest container ports on the planet, six are located in Mainland China. Realizing that an inevitable decline was coming their way, successive mayors of Kaohsiung and government leaders in Taipei talked about plans for rejuvenating Taiwan’s most important harbor to keep it relevant for many more years to come. But coming up with one that would actually work proved very challenging due to the complexities of the entire project. Whoever was at the helm would need to bring all stakeholders – which include state-owned enterprises, the port authority, and even the military, among many others – who control different parts of the port and the waterfront together to make any real progress.
Playful installations at Dayi Park at the end of Pier-2 and just around the corner from the Kaohsiung Music Center
The first step was taken in 2003, the year when the city government tore down the long wall that once enclosed the waterfront area and effectively cut it off from the public. Three years later, Chen Chu – the first directly-elected female mayor in the country – began her stint as the new leader of the city. She would then prove to be the one who was able to get the city administration, state-run companies, port authority, military, and Taiwan’s central government (including the president and the parliament) to agree on a vision to reinvent Kaohsiung’s harbor. She was able not only to find compromise and push through plans formulated using win-win principles, but also to convince the public of the importance of having such an ambitious vision.
The municipal leaders then went overseas to visit cities that have successfully transformed their waterfronts into districts that are inviting not only for residents and visitors alike who come for their various cultural offerings, but also for business owners who see opportunities to invest in the area. Yokohama, Kobe, Singapore, and Hamburg were chosen as case studies. And invaluable lessons from these official trips were instrumental in ensuring the success of the so-called Asia New Bay Area, a long-term project which aims to put Kaohsiung back on the world map.
Like any large-scale redevelopment project across the globe, bold and impressive architecture is an inseparable component in the masterplan. Not only is this intended to arouse people’s curiosity, but it also creates a lasting icon that would serve as the city’s landmark. The Kaohsiung Music Center does just that. Designed by Spanish architect Manuel Álvarez-Monteserín Lahoz, this unique building which was inaugurated in 2021 took natural forms found on the seafloor as its inspiration. The hexagonal patterns on its façades are certainly a head-turner, and at night the entire building becomes an even more arresting spectacle.
However, not all is new. Just down the seaside promenade from the city’s glitzy music center is the Pier-2 Art Center, a series of old warehouses that have been repurposed as low-rise galleries, cafés, and shops with some intriguing outdoor sculptures placed in the vicinity. The run-down appearance of the storehouses seemed to have been deliberately left unchanged, probably to show people that the juxtaposition of old and new can have a charming result. All of this definitely managed to make this part of the waterfront attractive, evident in the number of people flocking to this area every time we came – except for that one day when most businesses were closed due to a typhoon warning.
When you find yourself at the Pier-2 area, you’re all but certain to spot a pedestrian bridge with a smooth white curve and a tall pointy mast that acts as an anchor when the viaduct rotates every afternoon. Touted as the longest cross-port swing bridge in Asia, the Great Harbor Bridge has become a hit among the crowds, especially in the minutes leading up to the scheduled daily rotation. But there is more reason to cross this feat of engineering than just to watch it turn 90° horizontally from the other side of the harbor. Not only is it filled with old warehouses that have also been turned into shops and restaurants, but this section of Kaohsiung’s port known as Penglai Pier also houses what is among the most fascinating pieces of public art along the waterfront. Tucked away in a rather hidden corner of the pier, Echo Across the Harbor might not be easy to spot at first. But to find it all you need to do is follow the sound. Conceived by Kaohsiung-based Studio Hou x Lin, this carillon of 38 bronze bells was intended to evoke the historical soundscape of the port. Inspired by the cranes that were used to load bananas in bamboo baskets – the pier’s main export commodity during its heyday – onto waiting ships, the three columns and the round golden cases of the modern art installation were erected to support and enclose the bells, which themselves were cast halfway across the world in the Netherlands.
Hexagonal shapes on the façade of the Kaohsiung Music Center
The Great Harbor Bridge during its daily rotation
A short walk toward Hamasen, the downtown area of the city during the Japanese colonial period (when Kaohsiung was still called Takao), will bring you to Kaohsiung Port Warehouse No. 2, or KW2 for short. Constructed in 1914 as a small warehouse with brick walls and a tiled roof, it was then damaged by Allied bombing during World War II. In the 1960s it was rebuilt using concrete and rebar, eliminating the need for pillars and making its obstruction-free design ideal for storing large quantities of sugar and banana for export. Today, however, what you will find instead are independent retailers, souvenir shops, eateries, and a visually-pleasing hostel built with Japanese minimalist aesthetics in mind.
A few blocks away from KW2 is a place that I believe would ignite that inner child in you, or at least that’s what it did to me. The Hamasen Museum of Taiwan Railway might look like a regular museum at first. But if you go deep inside the building, you will find a very impressive model of Taiwan’s railway network. Not only does it showcase miniature regular trains, but also the high-speed train, the mountain train, as well as Kaohsiung’s own Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) and Light Rail Transit (LRT). In addition to the moving parts that bring the entire scene to life, the lighting also changes simulating day and night.
Speaking of Kaohsiung’s LRT, it conveniently connects many places of interest along the city’s waterfront, providing the general public with a cheap and easy way to get from one part of the harbor to another. Also known as the circular light rail, the southern section of the line in fact makes use of the historic Japanese-era tracks. We, of course, took this mode of transport a lot, including to visit the Kaohsiung Port Cruise Terminal. Designed by New York-based architecture firm Reiser + Umemoto, this latest addition to the city’s skyline makes a bold statement with its dramatic curvature. While entry is restricted to cruise ship passengers, visitors can marvel at the building and its surroundings from a third-floor viewing deck that can be accessed via an elevator. From there, the sinuous roof of the Kaohsiung Exhibition Center and the ever-impressive supertall skyscraper that is 85 Sky Tower can be better appreciated. Also visible were empty plots of land waiting to be occupied by more buildings in the future.
Maybe it is too early to tell whether the Asia New Bay Area has been as successful as Singapore’s Marina Bay or Yokohama’s Minato Mirai 21. But one thing is for sure: the recent redevelopments have sparked public interest in what was once a purely industrial part of Kaohsiung. You should see it yourself. And when you do, it’s probably wise to avoid the heat and humidity of October. But if you insist, make sure you wear an outfit that can breathe so you can focus on enjoying the city’s changing waterfront instead of wiping away the sweat that runs down your face. But you can always head to KW2 to cool yourself with a cup of gelato. Where else can you find delicious, cold goodness with flavors like avocado pudding and salted egg puff pastry?
Inside the museum this very impressive railway model is waiting to be explored